Mountain Biking is an exciting, fast paced sport that is growing at an incredible rate over recent years. I thought I would make a Guide, The Ultimate Guide if you will, for Mountain Biking for Beginners. This blog has everything you need to know to know about starting the amazing sport that is Mountain Biking.

California has been the starting place of many subcultures over the years, most notably The Surfing and Skateboarding communities that have since grown to the international level. Mountain Biking as we know it today was also started in California, this time by a group of hippies who in the early 1970s who modified a bunch of beach cruiser bikes with thick balloon tires, better brakes and handlebars. These infamous bikes became known as ‘Klunkers’ . The hippies would then bomb the slopes of Mount Tamalpais hills at breakneck speeds and often would end up breaking their bikes (and bodies) in the process. But this is what they lived for, the rush, so they didn’t seem to mind the injuries to much and kept up the fun. Due to the oil in the hubs melting, spilling out, and needing to be repacked after each run, these races became more and more popular and were dubbed “Repack races.” The repack races trend caught on and mountain biking continued to grow in popularity.

Manufacturers of road bikes began to notice the rise in popularity of mountain riding at the end of the 1970s and the beginning of the 1980s. In 1981, a Specialized bicycle known as the “Specialized Stumpjumper” became the first mountain bike to be mass-produced (a modern variant of this bike is still made by specialized today). The original Specialized Stumpjumper had a road bike frame that was strengthened with thicker tubing, a frame that was wider to accommodate larger tires, and the first flat handlebars to improve stability on unpaved surfaces. Mountain biking, however, was still very much in its infancy and was still considered to be a passing trend.

It took a few years for mountain biking to take off properly. The media began to take note of mountain biking in the late 80s and began to show ever increasing footage of major mountain biking races to the masses. Naturally, this led to the athletes receiving significant sponsorship deals, which generated fierce competition among the top competitors. Pro Level Mountain Biking became a viable career for many riders. Top-tier bicycle manufactures were compelled to create novel mountain bikes and, more crucially, to broaden their selection of mountain bike equipment and components as a result of the high-level competition and extensive media coverage. Since then, mountain biking has developed into a continually changing sport. It has been divided into numerous subcategories, each of which has a thriving subculture and calls for unique motorcycles. As bicycles advance, some concepts are abandoned and others pave the way for the future. Both mountain biking as a sport and the bikes themselves are constantly evolving.

There are several types of mountain bikes. They have different geometry, tire sizes, rigidity, weight, suspension, seat posts, etc… The variations are endless, but they are generally grouped into the following categories:

1. Rigid Bikes:

These mountain bikes have no suspension on the front fork or rear. Not much to say here other than if you are beginner and this is your choice for off-pavement / hard-pack dirt you’ll just get beat to a pulp and hate mountain biking before you get a chance to like it. These are comfortable versatile bikes for riding on pavement that are safer and more user-friendly than road bikes.

2. Hardtail Bikes:

A mountain bike with suspension shocks on the front fork, but not the rear. These are more affordable, which for your budget, will allow you to purchase a bike with better components that are lighter. Hardtail bikes also have better handling than entry-level full-suspension bikes. Hardtail mountain bikes are not just for entry-level riders looking to save some money: their lighter weight and rigidity make them excellent cross country bikes and racing bikes.

3. Full-Suspension Bikes:

Full-suspension bikes have suspension in the front and rear, which improves comfort and helps you ride more technical terrain. They are generally more expensive and weigh more. Most beginner mountain bikers wait until they’re more experienced to buy their first full-suspension bike.

1. Downhill/Park style:

This type of riding is done primarily at lift serviced bike parks during the summer at ski resorts. Downhill bikes are full-suspension and are heavy, with maximum suspension in the front (200 mm+) and rear wheels. Tires are big and very knobby. Riders will wear full body armor and face-shield helmets. This style of riding is not for the faint of heart. You ride fast and you ride hard. It can be brutal with lots of injuries. This style is for young people and those who haven’t gotten beaten into old age.

2. All-mountain / Enduro style:

The term enduro comes from the moto racing world and describes a competition where downhill sections are timed and uphill sections are not. This style of riding is aggressive, downhill and technical in the backcountry and made up of single and eroded double-track trails. The bikes are more functional going uphill than downhill-specific bikes but are less versatile than XC or Trail bikes. Generally, they have more travel (a measurement of how much a wheel can move to absorb bumps) in the front suspension (around 150 mm) and are beefier than XC or Trail bikes with wider tires.

3. Trail style:

Next in line is the style that focuses equally between technical downhill riding and uphill/rolling cross-country terrain. This is the most common mountain biking style and it’s all about variety. The bikes are the most popular mountain bikes, with decreased weight, mid-range front fork travel (120-150 mm) and bike geometry that favors comfort over pure performance. These are mostly full-suspension bikes (suspension in the front and back).

4. Cross-country (XC):

This style of mountain biking is all about climbing and speed for longer, epic rides in the backcountry. The most important variable in XC bikes is low weight and efficient / smooth shifting. The bikes ability to deal with technical terrain sections takes a backseat to rolling efficiency and pedaling. Very light, very expensive full-suspension bikes are used here or commonly used hardtail mountain bikes.

5. Fat biking:

The newest entry in the riding styles arena. These bikes are designed for riding on snow and sand, or anywhere you need ridiculously huge tires (as wide as 5 inches or 12.7cm) for maximum grip. This riding style is all about 4-seasons cycling.

If you are interested in the competive side of Mountain Biking, Red Bull made a very informative article about all the formats and races that are done on the pro level.

So you are looking to get your first Mountain Bike but are overwhelmed by the options and want to spend your money wisely. Don’t Worry. I got you.

Ok starting off you got a choice of two options. Mountain bikes are designed around the suspension systems. You got Hardtail Bikes, which only have suspension over the front wheel. And then you have Full Suspension Bikes which as the name suggests, has suspension over both the front and back wheels. There are pros and cons to each type. It comes down to want to do with your bike and what you want to ride.

Suspension:

Hardtails are great for beginners in part because they are the most affordable. They perform the best on smooth trails, so if your local trails are pretty rocky and rooty, you should consider a full-suspension bike instead. But some riders, including pro mountain bikers, prefer hardtails regardless because of their responsiveness, lighter weight, and better power transfer when pedaling. (On a full-suspension bike, some power that you produce through pedaling is lost because the frame flexes.)

Full-suspension mountain bikes are for riders who want more comfort or a better bike for rowdier trails, but keep in mind, these aren’t cheap. These bikes come in a wide range of suspension options for both the front and rear. Generally, the more travel (travel is a measurement of how much a wheel can move to absorb bumps which is measured in millimeters) there is in the suspension, the smoother the ride and the more technical the terrain you can take on without feeling the effects of the rough riding.

Look for a bike with at least 100mm of travel front and rear—there tends to be more up front versus the rear—and more if you want a more comfortable ride on technical trails. Travel of 170mm and up is heading into downhill territory and is too much for riding everyday trails. Somewhere in between is the sweet spot for most riders.

There’s a couple other things to consider when buying your bike.

Frame Material:

The most common bike frame material options you’ll find in your local bike shop are aluminum and carbon, and they both have their pros and cons. Aluminum is more affordable but heavier, while carbon is more expensive but much lighter. Carbon also has a smoother ride feel. You can also find mountain bikes from frame builders that are made from steel or titanium. Steel has a good ride feel but is on the heavy side, while titanium has a great ride feel and is lighter—but it’s the most expensive.

When making a decision on frame material, consider your personal preferences and your budget. But most people start with aluminum because those bikes are the more affordable, entry-level option.

Wheel Size:

Modern adult-sized mountain bikes from reputable bike manufacturers offer wheels in one of two sizes: 27.5-inch or 29-inch. The old wheel size standard was 26-inch, and it’s mostly fallen out of use except in kids bikes. Bike frame sizes at both ends of the spectrum may only offer one wheel size: for example, 27.5-inch for an extra small bike or 29-inch for an extra-large bike. But you might find that you’re able to choose a wheel size for the bike you’re interested in. The larger the wheel, like on 29ers (that’s what you call a bike with 29-inch wheels), the easier it is to roll over obstacles and the better traction you have. But smaller wheels are lighter and can accelerate faster. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference.

1. Bike – First and foremost you gonna need a bike. Read the Section Above for information on what to consider when buying a bike.

2. Helmet – To protect that precious noggin of yours. Any Helmet is better than none but mountain biking helmets are specifically designed to cover the lower back of your head. (Crashing is inevitable and practically a rite of passage, but don’t let that scare you!) A mountain bike helmet will also usually have an adjustable visor. For even more protection, like if you’re honing your skills at the bike park, opt for a full-face helmet.

These are the essentials. Mountain Biking is minimalist by nature. Everything else is just nice-to-have (at least when starting out). But here are the recommeded items to have.

3. Shoes – Unless you want to hit the trails barefoot any closed shoes are recommeded. Mountain Biking Shoes come in 2 types, Flat and Clipless. 

• Flat Shoes are flat soled shoes with sticky rubber and added durability that stick to your pedals with great friction.
• Clipless Shoes are spiked sole shoes that lock nicely into your pedals when riding.

4. Protective Gear – Depending on your ability level and the difficulty of the terrain you’ll be riding, additional protective gear like elbow pads and knee pads are a good idea. If you’re new to the sport, or progressing into more technical riding, wearing these will help you get through the learning curve (relatively) unscathed. For riding fast, challenging downhill trails, consider also wearing bike-specific body armor with a chest protector, a neck brace, and hip pads.

5. Riding Gloves – These provide extra grip and prevent sweaty hands from slipping off the handlebars and gearshifters when riding.

6. Eyewear – Protect your eyeballs from the sun’s harmful UV rays. Also serves as a shield against incoming bugs, dirt and rocks when riding, especially useful when you are riding behind someone.

7. A Mini Repair Kit – It’s inevitable. You gonna get a flat at some point. It’s just the name of the game. Even if you are riding tubeless. Attach a small repair kit to your bike frame and learn how to use it so you don’t have to do the o so long walk back to your car if you get a flat.

8. Water Bottle or Hydration Pack

9. Trail Map or GPS app – Lastly, unless you’re already familiar with the trail system you’re riding, you’ll need a trail map, cycling GPS computer, or phone app to help you navigate and find your way back to the trailhead. Some trail systems offer paper maps at the trailhead, or at least a kiosk with a map you can take a picture of and carry with you. Also, check out the popular mountain biking phone apps, like Trailforks and MTB Project, and see which one works best for your area. Alltrails is also an option.

For a Full Checklist Check out REI’s mountain biking listand full a detailed desriptive checklist on each item here check out Bicycling.com

• Wicking jersey or top
• Footwear suited to bike’s pedals
• Padded shorts or tights
• Cycling socks
• Rainwear
• Weatherproof gloves
• Stowaway wind jacket
• Insulation layer(s) for cool conditions
• Buff/bandana/skullcap
• Arm/leg warmers

Finding This Helpful? Check out my other Beginner 101 Guides

 Bikepacking 101: A Beginner’s Guide

Climbing 101: A Beginner’s Guide

1. Make Sure your Bike is Set up Properly Before you Hit the Trails.

When you get a new (or new-to-you) mountain bike, there are a few things you need to do to set it up correctly for your weight and height. Many new mountain bikers don’t do this, but it can make a huge difference when it comes to comfort and confidence out on the trail. Here are two settings you should dial in before you ride:

• Suspension

Both the front fork and rear shock on most mountain bikes work via air pressure (unless you have a coil shock) and the right amount of air pressure is determined by your weight. This is called sag. In order to set sag, you’ll need a shock pump to add air into your shocks and you’ll also need to do a bit of research to find out how much psi is right for your body weight. Some shocks will have a chart sticker on them for easy reference, but most do not. If yours doesn’t, you’ll need to set your sag by a bit of trial and error and this is a great video that will walk you through the process.

He also talks about two other suspension settings in the video: compression and rebound. All this can be quite confusing at first, so I would recommend starting with sag – the most important setting – and then slowing starting to learn about and dial-in compression and rebound.

• Seat Height

If you’re wondering why your lower back or knees hurt when pedaling or why it feels like you’re climbing Everest, it’s probably because your seat height is off. Too high and your lower back gets strained; too low and it’s a killer for the knees and makes pedaling SO MUCH harder.

A proper seat height means that your knee is slightly bent when the pedal is closest to the ground. This may mean that you can’t reach both feet to the ground when you’re sitting on the seat, but that’s normal.

2. Keep Your Body Loose and Springy – 

If you keep your body loose – particularly your arms, shoulders, and knees – your bike becomes easier to handle and your riding will feel much smoother when going downhill and over trail obstacles

3. Remember that Momentum is Your Friend

Many riders new to mountain biking will rely on their brakes more than they need to. I get it, going faster than you’re comfortable with can be scary, but the truth is that momentum is your friend when it comes to mountain biking.

Speed will help you get through tricky rock sections with ease, float around corners with confidence, and even cruise through drops and jumps once you build the skills and confidence to do so.

In fact, most crashes for beginner mountain bikers happen because they don’t have enough speed. You’ve probably seen videos of riders going over the handlebars or toppling over onto their side through a rock garden. This happens (usually) because momentum is lost and the rider can’t maintain balance.

So keep working on easing off the brakes as you come into more technical sections on the trail and you’ll be surprised at what momentum can help you get through

4. Shift Your Weight

You’re going to hit some extreme terrain, including steep inclines and declines. When climbing a tough pitch, shift your weight forward and lean forward to keep your center of gravity over the rear wheel to maintain traction. When the trail tilts downward, go in the opposite direction, shifting your weight behind the saddle and over the rear wheel to avoid going over the bars.

5. Look Where You Want To Go

Staring directly at that rock you don’t want to hit will nearly ensure that you’re going to smack right into it. It’s called “target fixation;” your bike goes where your eyes are directing it to go. Instead, look past obstacles to where you actually want to go. Keep your chin level to the ground, eyes forward, and try to look as far down the trail as possible, using your peripheral vision to avoid and negotiate obstacles immediately in front of you. Upgrading to a trail-specific helmet will protect your head if an obstacle does trip you up.

• Learn how to Gear Shift quickly and efficiently – Practice shifting gears before you hit a new uphill or downhill section so you don’t lose momentum.
• Corners – Hit as many corners as you find when starting out and put extra emphasis on leaning into them with your body. You want to practice so much that the bike begins to feel like an extension of your body.
• Learn How to Track Stand – A track stand is basically being able to stand up on your bike at a standstill. It’s all about balance without having to put your feet down. Track stands are pretty easy to learn with a bit of practice. Try spending 5 minutes before each ride working on your balance!
• Brush Up on Basic Repair Skills – Brush up on some basic repairs to be sure you can get out of the woods when something breaks. At a minimum, you should know how to fix a flat. Other good skills to have include repairing a broken chain and replacing a bent or cracked derailleur hanger. Your local shop (or a good friend) can show you how.
• Develop Proper Braking Technique
  “Feathering” your brakes before you get to tight corners or during sustained downhills is the objective. You don’t want to lock up your brakes and drag your rear wheel through every turn or down a hill. Also, don’t forget about your front brake. Often times the tendency is to exclusively use your back brake, but the front brake provides excellent control and stopping power when used properly. Modern mountain bike brakes have tremendous modulation and adjustability. Know how to use them — they’ll be your best ally.

When trail riding grew in the United States, the International Mountain Bicycling Association (IMBA) was formed. Since 1988, IMBA has been bringing out the best in mountain biking by encouraging low-impact riding, volunteer trail work participation, cooperation among different trail user groups, grassroots advocacy and innovative trail management solutions. IMBA’s worldwide network includes 35 000 individual members, more than 750 bicycle clubs, more than 200 corporate partners and about 600 retailer shops. IMBA’s members live in all 50 U.S. states, most Canadian provinces and in 30 other countries.

RULES OF THE TRAIL

IMBA developed the “Rules of the Trail” to promote responsible and courteous conduct on shared-use trails. Keep in mind that conventions for yielding and passing may vary in different locations, or with traffic conditions.

1. Ride open trails: Respect trail and road closures – ask a land manager for clarification if you are uncertain about the status of a trail. Do not trespass on private land. Obtain permits or other authorisation as required.

2. Leave no trace: Be sensitive to the dirt beneath you. Wet and muddy trails are more vulnerable to damage than dry ones. When the trail is soft, consider other riding options. This also means staying on existing trails and not creating new ones. Don’t cut switchbacks.

3. Control your bicycle: Inattention for even a moment could put yourself and others at risk. Obey all bicycle regulations and recommendations, and ride within your limits.

4.Yield appropriately: Do your utmost to let your fellow trail users know you’re coming – a friendly greeting or bell ring are good methods. Try to anticipate other trail users as you ride around corners. Mountain bikers should yield to other non-motorised trail users, unless the trail is clearly signed for bike-only travel. Mountain bikers traveling downhill should yield to ones headed uphill, unless the trail is clearly signed for one-way or downhill-only traffic. In general, strive to make each pass a safe and courteous one.

5.Never scare animals: Animals are easily startled by an unannounced approach, a sudden movement or a loud noise. Give animals enough room and time to adjust to you. When passing horses, use special care and follow directions from the horseback riders (ask if uncertain).

6.Plan ahead: Know your equipment, your ability and the area in which you are riding and prepare accordingly. Strive to be self-sufficient: keep your equipment in good repair and carry necessary supplies for changes in weather or other conditions. Always wear a helmet and appropriate safety gear.

Modern Mountain Bikes are serious investments nowadays. They are getting more and more expensive and making our wallets lighter and lighter. So….we need to take good care of our bikes to ensure they last for years to come. A little bit of regular maintence will prolong your metal machine with wheels lifespan significantly.

Here are the basics

Before A Ride:

1. Check Your Tire Pressure – Make sure they are set exactly where you want them to be. If you’re wondering how much tire pressure you need, try this quick tire pressure calculation to get you in the ballpark. An inexpensive digital gauge is a fast way to do it without breaking out your pump every time. Nothing says “bummer” like changing a flat tire before–or during–a ride. While you’re at it, check your tire wear and inspect for any other damage, like a rogue goathead that may come out and cause a flat during a ride.

2. Test Your Brakes – Testing them on a downhill is not the time to discover there’s an air bubble trapped in your reservoir. Take a quick test drive around your house, and pump them a bit. If they feel a little loose, there may be a small bubble you can work free by pumping them a few times, or turning your bike upside down. If not, you should have them bled. If they feel soft, make sure your pads are not worn, then check your lines to make sure there isn’t a leak. It isn’t necessary to check your pads every time you ride if your brakes feel solid, but get in the habit of inspecting them for wear every now and then. If you find you need a bit more maintenance on your brakes, here’s how to adjust disc brakes on your bike.

3. Check Your Shifting – On your quick test ride, run through all the gears. If they feel off, check and make sure that your wheels are seated properly in the skewers or thru-axles. If they are, then adjust the barrel adjuster on your shifters forward or backwards if you know how. If you don’t, beware: it is easy to make shifting worse if you just randomly start twisting things. Also, check your chain and make sure all of the links are running across the chainring (front) and cassette (rear) without skipping. If your chain is skipping, you may have a frozen link. Lube it. If your chain and shifting are still acting up, you may need to spend some time investigating these common derailleur problems.

4. Check Your Pedals – These contact points are one of the most overlooked parts of a bike. Flats are often abused by hitting rocks or roots. Clipless pedals can get dirt or grime in them, and freeze up. Make sure they are clean, and you can get in and out of your pedals easily before you tackle that tricky rock garden.

5. Check The Fit – Check the fit
Again, on your test ride, make sure nothing feels off since the last time you rode your bike, especially if it has been a while. This is the time to adjust your saddle or post height, and check to make sure your dropper post is working if you have one.

6. Check Your Bolts and Screws – This really applies to a component you may have recently installed, particularly one that has a lot of torque, such as a new chainring. These items can loosen after a ride or two. It also important to check all of your bolts, on every part, every so often, and make sure none are loose or missing. Don’t be tempted to tighten bolts every time you check them, or you may over-tighten and damage the part. Carbon parts have an exact tolerance, and it is good idea to invest in a torque wrench or a T handle torque wrench so that you don’t over-tighten and destroy carbon bars, seatposts, etc…. (see below)

7. Check Your Skewers and Axles – Nothing says “bad day“ like having your wheel come off while you are riding downhill. For a variety of reasons, including forgetting to tighten them after you pull your bike off of a roof rack, your axles may be loose. Check and make sure before you hit the trail.

After A Ride:

1. Inspect Your Bike – Make sure there are no cracks in the frame or the handlebars, especially if you have carbon. This goes double if you crashed on your ride, because small cracks can have catastrophic consequences. Check your drivetrain, brakes, and other items too. It is better to find out now that a part needs servicing, than right before your next ride.

2. Clean Your Bike – In general, you don’t need to wash your bike after every ride. In fact, it could be detrimental because you will continually expose your bottom bracket and hubs to water and soap, wearing them down faster. Where you live and ride dictates how often you should wash your bike–and this varies with seasons. If you typically ride in mud or wet conditions, you may need to wash it more often. Otherwise, a gentle wash once a week is sufficient to keep it clean for inspection, testing, and lubrication.

By the way, don’t use a pressure washer or high powered hose on your bike, especially around greased moving parts like the hubs and bottom bracket. Almost any liquid soap will do, but beware that some soaps have strong detergents that may affect paint or lubed parts. When in doubt, buy a bike-specific liquid soap.

3. Wipe Down Your Suspension Stanchions – Commonly ignored, it is easy to hang the bike up after squeezing every minute of riding time out of your rig and forget to care for your fork and shocks. Keeping dust and mud off of the stanchions preserves the silky smooth reliability of your fork/shocks, and extends the service interval by keeping mother earth out of the suspension oil. It’s also a good idea to check your recommended air pressure for both the shock and fork every few rides, especially if something feels different or not quite right.

4. Lube Your Drivetrain – Wipe off or clean your chain and use your lube of choice. If you don’t know what lube is best, ask a local shop based on your local trail conditions. Lubing a chain after a ride lets it sink into the chain and attracts less dust and sand than lubing before a ride. Go slowly and add a tiny drop to each link carefully, then wipe off the excess. Using a lot of lube will only attract dirt and interfere with shifting. You should not have to scrub or deep clean your chain too often–no more than once a month depending on where you ride and how often. If you consistently have a heavy, dirty grease buildup on your chain or cassette, you are probably using too much lube. Using a chain scrubber can also be helpful.

Annual Bike Maintenance Checks:
It is also important to have your bike serviced every season, usually in the late winter or spring before the pinnacle of biking season ramps up. This may include servicing forks or shocks, bleeding brakes, rebuilding hubs, refreshing tire sealant, replacing the bottom bracket, or simply a detailed inspection, deep clean, and lube. If you can do all of this yourself, great!!

Here’s a video explaining it all

1. Pick the Right Riding Partners
If your goal is to grow as a rider, then spend time with people you’re comfortable riding with. Your group should both push you to be better as well as support your growth as an athlete. You shouldn’t feel embarrassed to try new things or pressured to ride above your ability level too quickly. A good group of friends goes a long way in helping you become a better rider.

2. If You Can’t Ride a Section of Trail, Keep Trying!
Don’t be afraid to stop and “session” a technical area during your ride. Maybe it’s a steep downhill, rocky climb, or tight corner that keeps throwing you off. Analyze the section and work on line choice, trying new positions on your bike until you “clean” it. The only way to get better is to ride outside of your comfort zone.

3. Don’t Forget About the Climbs
When we think about technical trail riding, we often envision riding downhill. However, it’s just as important to be competent on steep and challenging climbs as during descents. Body positioning, gearing, and pedaling efficiency are key for these types of climbs. Maintaining a neutral position on the bike and a smooth, powerful pedal stroke will often get you to the top of most rock or root-strewn climbs.

4. Get Comfortable Being in the Air
Often times off-road rides include rock drops, ledges, jumps and other features that can take your tires off the ground. You don’t have to be comfortable flying through the air, but you should be confident in handling smaller features. Start small and work your way up. Work on pulling your front tire off the ground and carrying your speed through the landing. It’s usually not as scary as it seems!

5. Take the Cleanest Line, Not the Hardest
Work on picking the cleanest and most efficient lines through rough terrain. Often times the best line is not necessarily the hardest or most challenging. Carrying speed through challenging sections is more important than performing hard maneuvers in order to get through it. Ride clean for the best results.

6. Don’t Forget About Strength Training
Mountain biking is physical and requires the engagement of many more muscles than just your legs. A strong upper body and core are critical, especially as the trails become more challenging. Focus on a strong grip, arms, shoulders and trunk to make it safely through tough trails.